Research Projects

For wind with sufficiently short scales, evolution of waves is described fairly well by linear theory. However, linear analysis is incapable of predicting spectral variations in deep‐water waves that occur in the absence of currents due to three major factors: nonlinear interactions, dissipation (mainly due to wave breaking), and energy input from wind to waves (Kahma 1981). Accurate assessment of those spectral changes is essential for wave forecasting. The randomness and three‐dimensionality of wind waves have to be accounted for adequately. The present study aims to understand better the diverse mechanisms governing the evolution of young wind waves in a small‐scale wind‐wave tank that will develop within the framework of this project. While the contribution of some physical processes may differ somewhat for young and for mature waves, in this study, we hope to gain understandings that will also shed light on mechanisms governing the evolution of much longer waves in the ocean