Research Projects

For wind with sufficiently short scales, evolution of waves is described fairly well by lineartheory. However, linear analysis is incapable of predicting spectral variations in deep‐waterwaves that occur in the absence of currents due to three major factors: nonlinear interactions,dissipation (mainly due to wave breaking), and energy input from wind to waves (Kahma 1981). Accurate assessment of those spectral changes is essential for wave forecasting. Therandomness and three‐dimensionality of wind waves have to be accounted for adequately. Thepresent study aims to understand better the diverse mechanisms governing the evolution ofyoung wind waves in a small‐scale wind‐wave tank that will develop within the framework ofthis project. While the contribution of some physical processes may differ somewhat for youngand for mature waves, in this study, we hope to gain understandings that will also shed light onmechanisms governing the evolution of much longer waves in the ocean